Explore - Africa

On a blazing May afternoon I took a sluggish boat from my lakeshore hotel in Bahar Dar and sailed to the outlet of the Blue Nile.

The hot breeze caressed the waters of the lake, creating ripples like the signatures they leave on desert sand. Gentle waves lapped against the boat, rocking it like a cradle.

The distant shores of the lake were fringed with dead volcanic hills. At the volcanic lip of Lake Tana, lined with dense strands of papyrus, the muddy waters drift out lazily to form a narrow, sluggish rivulet that meanders through thickets of trees and shrubs, caressing boulders and banks edged with wildflowers. At the outlet it is hard to imagine that this stream will grow into a mighty river that has carved one of the deepest and widest canyons in the world and carries the water and silt that brings life to Egypt's dry sands, 4,400 km away. A lone man paddled his tankwa, a papyrus reed boat, which differs little from those depicted on the tombs of the Pharaohs.

From here the river journeys 30 kilometres to the Blue Nile Falls and then winds its way unbridled through the country, flowing in every direction. It flows east from the lake, and then suddenly twists south in a sharp curve for about 200 kilometres, then loops west before heading north towards Sudan where it merges with the White Nile in Khartoum.

Discovering the true source of the two Niles provided employment to several 19th-century Western explorers. Their efforts established Lake Victoria as the source of the White Nile and Lake Tana, in the highlands of Ethiopia, as the source of the Blue Nile. About 83 percent of the total water of the Nile comes from the Blue Nile. Like Indians, Ethiopians also consider the source of a river holy. They flock to the outlet with their weathered gourds, plastic jerry cans or glass bottles and take away its priest-blessed waters to cure a thousand ills or bless them with a bountiful crop or fill the womb of a barren woman with a child or counter the evil spell cast by a jealous neighbour.

On another day, after a hurried lunch, I left for the Blue Nile Falls, snaking left and right for 35-km on a frustrating track full of craters, rocks and slushy mud. Ibis, egrets, starlings, pigeons and other birds that feed off the farmer's sweat and labour populate the well-farmed region. Women worked the sugarcane and chilli fields and plastered cow dung on the mud walls of their houses. Cattle grazed on the brown grass. A flock of geese had taken over a small stream. At the water-logged village of Tis Abay, 'smoke of the Nile', the local name for Blue Nile, I picked up a guide for the 20-minute hilly trek to the waterfall's prime viewpoint. We slid down a slippery, boulder-strewn slope into a gorge, crossing the Nile on an arched stone bridge built by Portuguese and Indian masons around 1620. Below us, the river squeezed through a narrow canyon of black basalt that had poured out of fissures in the earth 30 million years ago and flooded the Ethiopian Highlands with a blanket of hot lava more than a mile deep. A blue-breasted bee-eater performed aerobatics over the river's muddy waters.

The track ascended to a sorry settlement. Unwashed women in tattered rags stitched together sat on the path weaving reed baskets. Little girls trotted by our side, shouting "Mister! Mister!", pedalling colourful calabashes, shawls and scarves. At the top of a bend, two boys in green shorts sat on the bent trunk of a peepul tree chewing sugarcane. When we got closer, they extended their hands, asking for "photo money". We discovered they were not chewing sugarcane but playing the flute and demanding money for the effort. They shattered my fancy of enjoying the lingering echo of an Ethiopian shepherd's flute producing wonderful music from across a highland valley. I paid them a couple of birrs to cease their exertions.

We could hear the dull rumbling of the waterfall. Traversing the side of a hill, we stood facing the spectacle. The 18th-century Scottish traveller James Bruce, had described the waterfall as, "a magnificent sight, that ages, added to the greatest length of human life, would not efface or eradicate from my memory; it struck me with a kind of stupor, and a total oblivion of where I was, and of every other sublunary concern". James had probably not seen the Niagara or the Victoria Falls and can be excused for his fanciful and amplified observation. What we saw was the Nile, 30 km after it exits Lake Tana, flowing listlessly through a flat land planted with groves of trees. Half of the river is diverted into a canal that turns the turbine of a 70 MW hydroelectric project that powers Tis Abay village.

The other contracted half, about five metres wide, piddles over a 45m-high rock face. There were no drenching sprays of mist or multiple rainbows. It was not a sight that threw us into convulsions. The spectacle could be more dramatic during the rainy season when the volume of water is more and the river is 400m wide--yet it would be nowhere as thundering a display as the Niagara or Victoria. The guide said that teams of Russians came every year to raft down the gorge of the Blue Nile. After having rafted on Himalayan rivers and been on luxury cruises, I have come to the conclusion that if a raft does not have a casino on it, it isn't worth it.

Next morning, on St Mary's Day, I hired a boat to visit some of the islands that dot the 3,673 sq km Lake Tana. Many of the lake's 37 islands shelter churches and monasteries, some of them over 700 years old. On one of the islands the Ark of Covenant, the stone tablets given to Moses by God, was kept hidden for 600 years--before being moved to Axum. On another island is a boulder on which St. Mary, the mother of Jesus, is said to have rested on her flight with the Holy Child from Palestine to Egypt. Why the Virgin Mary took such a circuitous route or why she chose to lounge on a hard boulder instead of soft grass are mysteries that are yet to be resolved.

Ura Kidhane Mihret, one of the better churches and easily accessible from Bahir Dar, has kept this island's economy ticking. The 14th-century circular church, set within bleak stone walls, had a roof of corrugated tin sheets and its inside walls were, according to the Bradt guidebook, decorated with ancient biblical imagery "positively Chaucerian in their physicality, ribaldry and gore". A sad-eyed, sunken-cheeked priest dressed in a flowing black robe and a yellow cape stood at the entrance, ready to rob all travellers that journeyed by his gates. His ticket book interfered with our admission. The prohibitive entrance cost forced us to retreat and mingle with a group of old, sunburnt priests who had clustered their bleached bones together in a nearby shed to breakfast on injera bread and wine. Uninvited, I joined the row of wrecked friars sitting on rocks and waited for my turn to be served the spongy bread and a mushy orange dish out of a bucket. Though the food was tasteless and fit only for vultures, I downed it without gagging. It also did not smell as bad as the white-turbaned priests. The milky white wine, resembling chang, a heady Himalayan spirit, served in a cracked and soiled plastic cup, smelt foul, tasted pungent and is nothing to pine for. Its insipid and unexciting attributes make it fit only for monks.

There was no dearth of poverty-stricken people on the island. Fences, hedges and rude piles of stone marked the boundaries of family lands growing a sickly crop of weeds. Sharpened sticks served as ploughs. No modern invention, since the wheel, seems to have made itself viable on this antiquated island. There was no electricity. We walked into a house, outside of which was an airy kitchen made of wooden sticks roped together. Two ovens had been scratched into the earth. Some scraggy chicks sat on the cooled oven ash. On another, oven water was being heated in an earthen vessel balanced on two rocks. A scrawny woman in a home-spun white robe, elegantly embroidered in the middle and at the sleeves, and a colourful sash tied around her shrunken waist, tended the fire. Some flour and injera bread lay exposed on a reed basket. I ventured inside the house. A grubby fossil of a lady sat on a dirty, torn reed mat, her back resting against the mud wall. Pieces of an animal's skeleton with shreds of stale flesh hanging from the bones adorned a stained wall. Two of the fossil's grand daughters joined us. Their ashen faces reminded me of lizards and reptiles that lord over sorrowful ruins and inherit places where silence and death brood. They had neither hopes nor aspirations. Yet, they had a cross tattooed on their foreheads and hanging from their necks.

Returning to the charming Tana Hotel, I sat in the garden amongst vibrant bougainvillea, lofty hibiscus, and fragrant frangipani bushes and over bottles of Dashen wondered if Napoleon Bonaparte was right in saying that "religion is what keeps the poor from murdering the rich".

Heading to Europe for your summer vacation again? Skip the usual and do something you have never done before. Explore new national parks, buy eco-friendly clothes in Paris or try the world's first free fall roller coaster in England.
The Skyview in Stockholm: If you are tired of travelling to the oft-visited cities in Europe then head to Stockholm, where the most recent attraction--the SkyView gondola--is sure to thrill you. Located at the Stockholm Globe Arena, the world's largest hemispherical building, two glass gondolas will carry you on rails built around this awesome golf ball-shaped building to its top. The view, as you can imagine, from a height of 130 metres, is truly spectacular. So if you are not scared of heights, take a ride up and see the Swedish capital spread out before you. For die hard romantics: Those planning to tie the knot can even arrange to have a wedding ceremony on SkyView!

New Acropolis Museum in Athens: Even if you are among those who prefer to skip museums when on vacation, take time out to visit the new Acropolis Museum, a gleaming modern structure, cutting a striking contrast in one of the world's oldest civilisations. The new structure is home to the most unique treasures from ancient Greece including 140 tonnes of sculptures have been ferried from the top of the Acropolis into the museum. However you may be disappointed that Elgin Marbles are still not back at home. They were removed from the Parthenon in the early 19th century and are now at the British Museum.

World's first free fall drop roller coaster in England: A ride that cost £15 million to make has to have something develop about it. 'Th13teen', at Alton Towers in Staffordshire, claims to be the world's first vertical free fall drop roller coaster. This adrenalin pumping ride gives you the ultimate thrill as it takes you on a journey full of unexpected twists and turns. If you prefer the unpredictable then this really does top the chart. There is a definite element of surprise, even though it does not go as high as other rides in the park. So if you want to try something new and different, then trot off to the Alton Towers when you're next at in England.

New galleries at V&A Museum in London: Art lovers and history buffs will not be satisfied with just one visit to the new Medieval and Renaissance Galleries opened at the Victorian and Albert Museum in London. It's a treat for anyone with a taste for European art. An entire wing has been requisitioned and more than £30 million has been spent over seven years in launching the new galleries. The display encompasses a time span that stretches from AD 300 to 1600 and ranges across the countries and cultures of an entire continent. One gallery is devoted just to the works of 15th century sculptor Donatello, his contemporaries and followers.

Eco fashion stores across Europe: Do your bit for nature while holidaying in Europe, and shop at eco fashion boutiques and stores that sell environment friendly clothes. This trend has really caught on and stores are opening up quick and across the continent. Berlin saw the opening of Wertvoll, the green fashion boutique; while Paris also opened its doors to it first eco boutique, Ekovaruhuset. These boutiques sell fashionable clothes made with natural fibres such as cotton grown without pesticides and recycled cloth. Concerns about climate change have made eco fashion hip and happening. Two organic cosmetic stores by Couleur Caramel also opened in Paris--Maquillage Caff de Couleur Caramel. The chairs in the store are created from recycled cans!

McDonald's goes green: Has Ronald McDonald become a tree hugger? It may seem very odd, but go check out the new image of McDonald's at Munich airport, the first outlet where they have changed the sign background for the iconic mustard coloured arches from ketchup red to green. Forty new restaurants are set to open this year and they'll all have new designs including natural stone and wood. McDonald's is doing its bit to demonstrate its commitment to the environment and responsibility to natural resources. Some outlets in the US will also follow and go green.

The latest haute culture city: Istanbul: If you have not visited Istanbul, then head out this year, when this city shares the title of European Capital of Culture with Pecs in Hungary and Essen in Germany. For the vibrant city of Istanbul, which has a cultural heritage spanning thousands of years, this is not difficult. Visit the Blue Mosque, take a stroll in the evening and take in the sights and sounds of this city, that has an equally vibrant nightlife. Apart from the many art events going on this year, there are two new museums opening in Istanbul--Museum of the Princes' Islands and The Museum of Innocence. There couldn't be a better time to visit.

Phillipe Starck's hotel in Venice: It's opulence is hidden behind a nondescript door-- a true sign of Starck, but French designer Phillipe Starck has converted a 16th century aristocratic residence into a hotel designed to make you feel truly Venetian during your stay. Palazzina Grassi, the famous designer's first Italian hotel, overlooks the Canal Grande, and is known not just as a hotel, but as a sort of 'private club'. It has glass sculptures, mirrors, and wooden floors. The Venetian experience begins the moment you arrive in the city--you can check-in on the boat sent by the hotel to pick you up. For details visit www.palazzinagrassi.it

New cruise ship: viking legend: Skip the trains and explore Europe leisurely on Viking Legend---the 443 ft long vessel. It is built to cruise through Rhine, Main and Danube rivers between the cities of Amsterdam, Budapest, Vienna, Nuremberg and Passau. This is not only the longest ship in Viking's 21 vessel fleet, but also the greenest one as the emissions are 20 percent lesser than other ones. It boasts the two largest suites on any European ship, and takes you past sprawling vineyards, castles and fishing villages which you might miss as you drive between these two countries. All the spacious deluxe rooms at Viking Legend come with 26-inch flat screens and either French balconies or picture windows. The fine-dining restaurant features seasonal menus and has popular local specialities. Visit www.vikingrivercruises.com for details and bookings.

New national parks: Sweden, Denmark and Norway are home to new national parks. Sweden's first marine national park, Kosterhavet Marine National Park, has opened at Stromstad, on the west coast. It is a protected 450 sq km zone home to rich marine life. Norway saw the opening of Ytre Hvaler National Park at Skarhalden, close to Oslo. This is another marine protected area of over 6,000 animal and plant species. Denmark also saw the launch of Mols Bjerge, opened by Queen Margarethe which is one of the best national parks in the country, situated at the stunning Mols Bjerge hills.